Electric Hookah
#22
Posted 23 March 2008 - 06:58 PM
#23
Posted 23 March 2008 - 09:44 PM
There is a chart with desired temperatures and the current needed for each guage of nichrome wire.
#24
Posted 24 March 2008 - 02:50 AM
+1 to pics and walk through of how you did it.
-H&S
#25
Posted 24 March 2008 - 11:38 AM
Temperature equilibrium? Ya boy.
#26
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:43 PM
ok cool i can see how that works... but .272A* 12V = 3.2W.... i just dont see how that can generate enough heat... but by all means if it works then thats awesome
i too want to see some piccies... im looking at building my own hookah and electric may very well be an option
#27
Posted 24 March 2008 - 10:52 PM
#29
Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:52 AM
ok cool i can see how that works... but .272A* 12V = 3.2W.... i just dont see how that can generate enough heat... but by all means if it works then thats awesome
i too want to see some piccies... im looking at building my own hookah and electric may very well be an option
This has made me wonder now also if it will generate enough heat....once pics are up maybe ill try it and see from there...
-H&S
#30
Posted 25 March 2008 - 11:18 AM
Low voltage doesn't mean it won't heat up the wire. Put 1V on a 1 ohm resistor. It will get way too hot to touch...she will work.
#31
Posted 25 March 2008 - 11:23 AM
#32
Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:08 PM
#33
Posted 26 March 2008 - 01:14 PM
#34
Posted 26 March 2008 - 03:10 PM
#35
Posted 26 March 2008 - 03:30 PM
The problem is not really with the heating element, or even how you mount it. The real issues I have been having are with making the system adjustible in temperature. With a low voltage system, a simple pot can easily adjust the temperature, but working with 120 V its impossible to use a common pot to adjust the temperature, and the light dimmers I have tried to use don't do much but turn the element on and off. I have been wondering about using a universal potentiometer (which can be found fairly cheaply on ebay) but I have no clue if they could handle the 1600 watts I would be putting through em. Short of that, I have been thinking about possibly getting some sort of rheostat (which is really just a high-rated pot).
#36
Posted 26 March 2008 - 05:09 PM
#37
Posted 26 March 2008 - 05:25 PM
If I like the way this looks to be working, I'll be considering.
#38
Posted 26 March 2008 - 07:58 PM
disgusting", smell had a quick oomph to it.
#39
Posted 26 March 2008 - 08:22 PM
But for real, where are the pictures?
#40
Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:39 PM
However, for the sake of experimentation, the simplest way to make this work seems to be by using a 15W soldering iron.
Glycerin boils at 550F/290C and a 15W soldering iron from Radio Shack can output up to 600F/320C, which happens to be the highpoint temperature of both natural and quicklight coals. The heat can be transferred by attaching a conductive material to the tip or by convection.
This post has been edited by teq: 26 March 2008 - 10:40 PM


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